First, I changed my mind at the last minute and flew out with my waders on. I needn’t have bothered – we were able to step from the pontoons directly to the beach.  Our flight out was about an hour over slate-colored Cook Inlet. We flew directly at Augustine Volcano, which is just as striking “in person” as it is …

Two years ago I backpacked for a week in the Brooks Range. I was more excited than nervous about the opportunity to see some brown bears, and so was thrilled when we saw four on our first day. Alas, though we saw plenty of sign we saw not a single bear for the remainder of the trip. So when I …