Category Archives: Diving

Notes from the Field: 26 September 2015

Reykjavik-Þingvellir-Reykjavik

Another home-style day: windy with horizontal rain, all day. Not a good day necessarily to be topside but underwater is a different story! Incredibly clear water at Silfra, at least 100 feet and probably way more than that. The water is glacial melt that has gone through miles and miles of filtration through volcanic soils – it’s drinkable straight from the lake, though I didn’t try this as I wasn’t sure how well I’d accomplish drinking a mouthful of water while still managing to breathe with my regulator. Not a whole lot to see but be able to swim in the rift between tectonic plates is just pretty damn neat.

Silfra is in Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, so I spent a bit of time walking through park of the park when I got done diving –  until my feet were squishing in my shoes and the water was wicking up my socks.  I was right next to the edge of the North American plate – I could’ve (and probably should’ve, since my shoes were already soaked) waded across a creek to touch it. The Eurasian plate is a kilometer or so distant – couldn’t see it because of the weather – and the area in between the two is laced with deep cracks and ponds/lakes like Silfra. The two plates spread a bit less than an inch per year.

After a warm shower and some fresh dry clothes I headed to Matur of Drykker for dinner – fantastic meal using all locally grown/caught/collected ingredients, including an Icelandic white ale flavored with thyme, cod chips, cod liver, cod tongue and cod head. Who’d o’ thunk cod parts could taste so good?!

Australia and PNG pics

I have finally finished wading through something like 3000 photos from our trip last year, and have whittled them down to a mere 150 or so. I put them in more or less chronological order so they’re a fairly accurate representation of our journey, though some poetic license was taken so that the gallery images and captions made more sense. They’re posted in the Gallery. Enjoy!

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Returning Already

Well, posting on a regular basis didn’t go quite as I’d hoped or planned. The internet service at the dive resort wasn’t free (as advertised in multiple locations) and was pricey enough that I opted not to spend a lot of time attempting to update the blog, and our Western Highlands lodging had no service at all. So, in a nutshell:

The diving in Milne Bay was essentially everything it was cracked up to to be: healthy, vibrant reefs with a huge biomass of fish and inverts and visibility that ranged from good (by our Unalaska standards) to unbelievable. The only minor disappointment Continue reading Returning Already

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Tawali

Paradise. There’s stuff all over the Port Moresby airport that refers to PNG as paradise and they’re not kidding. This country is stunningly beautiful (the parts that haven’t been logged). Certain aspects are strongly reminiscent of Cameroon -the oppressive heat and humidity of an un-air conditioned airport terminal; the smell of collective body odor; the poor roads and the roadside stands with some cigarettes, betel nuts and a few pieces of fruit for sale. But the jungle is comprised of different plants, the bird calls are unfamiliar Continue reading Tawali

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